Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
